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Pakoras are usually associated with frying.

This version changes the technique completely.

Ingredients

Makes 10 servings, about 2 pieces each

• 1 1/2 cups gram flour
• 3/4 tsp ground cumin
• 1/2 tsp fresh ginger, grated or minced
• 1/2 tsp garlic, crushed or minced
• 1 tsp fresh green chili, minced
• 1 tsp salt, or to taste
• 1 cup plain yogurt
• 1 bunch spinach, chopped, about 4–5 cups
• 1/2 tsp baking powder
• olive oil spray
• tamarind chutney, for serving

Method

Preheat the oven to 350°F / 180°C. Combine gram flour, cumin, ginger, garlic, chili, salt, and yogurt. Beat until mixed. Stir in spinach and baking powder.

Transfer to a lightly oiled 9-inch loaf pan, cover with foil, and bake about 70 minutes. Test with a toothpick.

Slice, spray lightly with oil, then broil about 4 minutes, turning once, until lightly crisp and browned.

Baking changes the form

The batter is cooked through as one mass before being sliced. Structure comes before crispness.

Broiling restores contrast

The second stage browns the surfaces and prevents the result from feeling like a soft savory loaf.

The recipe separates cooking through from crisping up.