Baked Pakoras (Bhajias)

Pakoras are usually associated with frying.\n\nThis version changes the technique completely.\n\n## Ingredients\n\nMakes 10 servings, about 2 pieces each\n\n- 1 1/2 cups gram flour\n- 3/4 tsp ground cumin\n- 1/2 tsp fresh ginger, grated or minced\n- 1/2 tsp garlic, crushed or minced\n- 1 tsp fresh green chili, minced\n- 1 tsp salt, or to taste\n- 1 cup plain yogurt\n- 1 bunch spinach, chopped, about 4–5 cups\n- 1/2 tsp baking powder\n- olive oil spray\n- tamarind chutney, for serving\n\n## Method\n\nPreheat the oven to 350°F / 180°C. Combine gram flour, cumin, ginger, garlic, chili, salt, and yogurt. Beat until mixed. Stir in spinach and baking powder.\n\nTransfer to a lightly oiled 9-inch loaf pan, cover with foil, and bake about 70 minutes. Test with a toothpick.\n\nSlice, spray lightly with oil, then broil about 4 minutes, turning once, until lightly crisp and browned.\n\n## Baking changes the form\n\nThe batter is cooked through as one mass before being sliced. Structure comes before crispness.\n\n## Broiling restores contrast\n\nThe second stage browns the surfaces and prevents the result from feeling like a soft savory loaf.\n\nThe recipe separates cooking through from crisping up.